Skin with broken capillaries reacts to cold wind and radiator heat every autumn. At Skin Laser in Osielsko we do not close blood vessels, but we help calm the redness. Professionally, we call this condition couperose, and the visible dilated vessels are known as telangiectasias. Many clients from Bydgoszcz and the surrounding area come to us in October, when their cheeks begin to flush more often than in summer.
Skin colour depends partly on the tiny blood vessels in the dermis. In couperose skin their walls are less elastic, so they dilate easily in response to triggers and over time stop returning to their original size. At first there is temporary redness that fades within a quarter of an hour or so. When this happens repeatedly over the years, the redness becomes permanent and visible red threads appear on the cheeks, nose and chin.
A tendency towards broken capillaries often runs in families and is more common in people with fair, thin skin. Yet predisposition is only half the story. The other half is written by daily habits and surroundings, and autumn and winter are particularly demanding for this skin type.
The most damaging factor is a sudden change in temperature, such as walking from freezing air into a heated flat or car. Add to that wind, dry air from radiators that weakens the skin barrier, as well as hot drinks, alcohol, spicy food and the sauna. Each of these triggers means another dilation of the vessels, and over time the skin copes with it less and less well.
I want to be completely clear about this. Cosmetology treatments will not close vessels that are already visible. That is a job for vascular lasers or IPL, and the laser we use in our clinic is intended solely for hair removal. When working with couperose skin, we focus on calming redness, strengthening vessel walls and rebuilding the skin barrier, so that new changes appear less often. This is the slow age approach: we do not fight the skin, we give it the conditions to function calmly.
It is also worth distinguishing couperose from rosacea. If the redness comes with bumps, pustules, burning or a feeling of heat in the skin, it is a signal to see a dermatologist first. Rosacea is a skin disease, and we will dedicate a separate blog post to it.
In the clinic we work mainly with gentle acids. Lactobionic acid belongs to the PHA group, has a large molecule and works on the surface, which makes it well suited to sensitive skin prone to redness. It hydrates, soothes and has antioxidant properties. Gluconolactone is similarly gentle.
Azelaic acid has an anti-inflammatory effect and helps reduce redness, and it does not make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it can be used at any time of year. Stronger acids such as glycolic acid or TCA are usually set aside for couperose skin, as they may irritate it. After every acid treatment the skin needs daily SPF 50 protection.
The second pillar is needle mesotherapy with a cocktail selected for couperose skin. The product, delivered directly into the skin, contains substances that support microcirculation and the elasticity of vessel walls, as well as hydrating ingredients. Right after the treatment the skin may be red at the injection points, but this is a temporary reaction. We set the number of treatments and the intervals between them individually, depending on the condition of the skin and how it responds to each visit.
What happens at home matters just as much. It is best to wash your face with lukewarm water and a gentle cleanser, and to dry it by patting with a towel rather than rubbing. With couperose skin we avoid scrubs with particles, sonic brushes and cosmetics containing alcohol or menthol. Before going out into the frost, a richer protective cream works better than a light emulsion.
Couperose skin needs patience and consistency, because results build up gradually. We always begin the plan with a cosmetology consultation, during which we assess the skin, ask about home care and select the treatments. Our clinic is located at ul. Botaniczna 5 in Osielsko, and Bydgoszcz is only about fifteen minutes away by car.
Can couperose be cured? The tendency cannot be removed, but regular treatments and well-chosen skincare help reduce redness and limit the appearance of new capillaries.
Can I have a peel if I have couperose skin? Yes, but a gentle one, ideally with lactobionic or azelaic acid. Scrubs with particles and strong acids are not a good choice for this skin.
When is the best time to start treatments? Autumn is a good moment, because the sun is weaker and the skin needs support before winter.
Katarzyna Gwizdal, MSc, cosmetologist, Skin Laser