Chemical peeling is one of the most commonly performed treatments in a cosmetic clinic – and one of the most misunderstood. It is not about a single universal acid that works the same way on every skin type. It is about the deliberate selection of an active substance tailored to a specific concern, skin type, season, and individual reactivity. That selection is precisely what determines whether the result will be genuinely good – or whether the treatment ends in irritation and disappointment.
Below you will find substantive information on what chemical peels are, which acids are used and for what purpose, when the treatment makes sense, when it does not, and what to do after the session to make the results truly visible.
What Is a Chemical Peel and How Does It Work
A chemical peel is a controlled exfoliation of the epidermis – and in the case of deeper procedures, an action on the lower layers of the skin as well – induced by a carefully selected active substance. In practice, this means accelerating cell renewal, evening out skin tone, reducing blackheads and inflammatory lesions, and improving skin texture and smoothness. A well-chosen peel acts as a reset for the skin: it regulates keratinisation, brightens the complexion, and gradually improves skin quality – provided it is part of a plan, not a one-off experiment.
Types of Cosmetic Acids and What They Are Used For
Acids used in professional cosmetic practice are divided into several groups, each acting differently and addressing different skin needs.
AHA acids (alpha-hydroxy acids) work primarily on the surface of the epidermis and are most associated with smoothing, moisturising, and improving skin tone. They are effective for dull and fatigued skin, fine lines, uneven complexion, and dehydration. Glycolic acid works more intensively and produces fast smoothing results; lactic acid is gentler and well-tolerated by dry and sensitive skin; mandelic acid – the mildest of the group due to its larger molecule size – is frequently chosen for combination and blemish-prone skin.
Salicylic acid, belonging to the BHA group (beta-hydroxy acids), acts differently – it penetrates the lipid environment and effectively cleanses the openings of sebaceous glands. It is the classic choice for blackheads, enlarged pores, oily and combination skin, and acne lesions.
PHA acids (polyhydroxy acids) have larger molecules, act more slowly and considerably more gently. These are the acids of choice for sensitive, irritation-prone skin with visible capillaries, as well as for dehydrated skin. Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are the most commonly used representatives of this group.
In addition to the above, target-specific acids are also used in professional practice. Azelaic acid reduces redness, inflammation, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Kojic acid is applied for pigmentation concerns. Ferulic acid supports antioxidant protection and reduces the effects of photoageing. TCA (trichloroacetic acid) is a stronger procedure used in appropriately selected cases. In practice, most professional peels are pre-formulated combinations of several active substances, delivering a more predictable and comprehensive result than a single acid used alone.
Indications – When Chemical Peels Are Worth Considering
A chemical peel may be a sound choice for sun-induced and post-inflammatory pigmentation, and melasma (always with care and a clear plan), acne and blackheads, enlarged pores and excess sebum, uneven skin texture, dull and lacklustre skin, early signs of ageing, and post-acne scarring – most often as part of a combined treatment approach.
Contraindications – When Acids Are Off the Table or Need to Wait
Chemical peels are not performed in the presence of an active skin infection (bacterial, viral, or fungal), active herpes, broken skin integrity or fresh irritation, recent sun exposure or sunbed use, during pregnancy (most professional procedures are postponed as a precaution), in the case of a strong allergic reaction or unstable skin, and when taking photosensitising medications – this is always discussed on an individual basis. Excessively aggressive home care immediately before the treatment (retinoids, acids, strong mechanical exfoliants) is also a reason to wait or revise the plan.
If you are unsure whether a peel is suitable for you, let us know at the consultation what you are currently using and what medications or supplements you take. Safety always takes priority over pace.
How Often Chemical Peels Are Performed and How Many Sessions Are Needed
This depends on the concern and the skin's response. Most commonly, a course of three to six sessions is recommended, at intervals of two to four weeks – less frequently for more intensive procedures. After the course, a maintenance schedule is established. Acids work best when they are part of a well-considered plan, not a one-off session. The skin needs time to remodel and show results.
Post-Peel Care – What to Do and What to Avoid
After the procedure, the skin may feel slightly tight and appear red, and in the following days it may flake – more or less depending on the type and depth of the peel. This is a normal renewal process.
To ensure a good and safe result, after a chemical peel we moisturise the skin and support its barrier with gentle, unfragranced products free from active ingredients. The face is washed gently, without rubbing, and peeling skin should not be pulled off. For 24 to 48 hours – or longer, as recommended – saunas, swimming pools, hot baths, and intense exercise should be avoided. For a few days, exfoliants, cleansing brushes, retinol, acids, and concentrated vitamin C should be set aside.
SPF after a peel is non-negotiable. A high-factor sunscreen, reapplied regularly, throughout the recovery period and beyond – because after exfoliation the skin is significantly more sensitive to UV radiation, and unprotected sun exposure is the most direct route to hyperpigmentation that will undo all the results of the treatment.
Why the Choice of Acids Matters So Much
Two people may present with the same concern – pigmentation, acne, enlarged pores – but the underlying cause, skin type, and treatment history can be entirely different. One skin type needs a gentle plan and work on restoring the barrier; another can move straight to more intensive procedures. Acne with blackheads is a different challenge from active inflammatory lesions, and mature skin with hormonal acne requires its own approach entirely.
The best results come from combining a well-chosen chemical peel, a regular series of sessions at appropriate intervals, and a smart home care routine that supports – rather than undermines – the work done in the clinic.
Katarzyna Gwizdal, MSc, cosmetologist, Skin Laser