"How to close pores?", "How to minimise enlarged pores?", "Pore-closing products" — these are among the most frequently searched skincare queries. I hear these questions regularly in my practice and understand where they come from — pores have accumulated a great deal of mythology over the years, endlessly repeated across social media and cosmetic advertising.
The truth is that skin pores do not open and close like doors. It is a simplification that sounds convincing from a marketing perspective, but has no basis in skin anatomy whatsoever.
What exactly are pores?
Pores are the openings of hair follicles and sebaceous glands. It is through them that sebum reaches the skin's surface — a natural secretion that protects the skin from water loss and external factors. Every person has pores. They cannot be removed or made to disappear. They are a natural part of the skin's structure.
Why are pores more visible in some people?
Several factors influence pore visibility at once. The first is sebum production — the more sebaceous glands secrete, the more visible the follicle openings can become. This is why enlarged pores are most commonly seen in people with oily and combination skin. Just like eye colour or hair thickness, pore size is largely determined by genetics — some people simply have larger follicle openings, and no cosmetic product can permanently reduce them.
With age, there is a gradual loss of collagen and elastin; the skin becomes less firm and follicle openings can appear larger as the surrounding tissue loses its support. UV radiation also plays a significant role — sun exposure accelerates collagen degradation, meaning years of UV exposure can increase pore visibility. This is yet another reason why daily SPF protection is one of the best anti-ageing investments you can make.
Does cold water close pores?
This is one of the most widespread myths. Cold water can temporarily constrict blood vessels and create a sensation of smoother skin, but it does not change pore size. Similarly, hot steam does not open pores — heat simply softens sebum and makes it easier to remove during cleansing. No temperature is capable of altering skin anatomy.
What actually helps reduce the appearance of pores?
While we cannot change their structure, we can make pores less visible. The best results come from combining a well-chosen home care routine with professional treatments. In daily skincare, the ingredients that work particularly well include retinoids, which regulate keratinisation and improve skin texture; salicylic acid, which clears sebaceous gland openings; niacinamide, which helps regulate sebum production; azelaic acid, which supports oily and acne-prone skin; and consistent sun protection.
If pores are very visible, home care alone may not be sufficient. In cosmetology, excellent results are achieved with microneedling, chemical peels tailored to the skin type, and treatments that stimulate collagen remodelling. Their goal is not to "close pores" but to improve overall skin quality, regulate sebaceous gland activity, and increase collagen production — which is what makes pores less noticeable.
Honest cosmetology does not promise the impossible
If someone promises to permanently close your pores or remove them entirely, it is worth approaching that claim with caution. There is no treatment or product that can change skin anatomy. What we can do is significantly improve skin condition, smooth its texture, and make enlarged pores far less visible. That is what modern cosmetology is about — not promises that cannot be kept, but conscious, reliable work with the skin.
Pores are a natural part of skin structure and cannot be opened or closed. Their visibility depends on genetics, sebum production, age, and collagen quality. A well-matched home care routine, regular sun protection, and appropriate cosmetological treatments can make skin smoother, firmer, and pores noticeably less visible. The most important thing is to separate marketing myths from facts — informed skincare always delivers better results than searching for a product that promises the impossible.
Katarzyna Gwizdal, MSc, cosmetologist, Skin Laser