he first pimples appear even in children as young as ten. I write about how to gently start a skincare routine before a visit to a dermatologist and a cosmetologist becomes necessary. A child’s skin is very delicate, so at the beginning a gentle approach matters, not strong cosmetics.
In children around 10 and 11 years old, acne usually starts with blackheads and small pimples on the forehead and nose. In a healthy child this is most often an early stage of puberty, not a reason for concern. It is different for children under 7, because acne at such a young age should always be discussed with a doctor.
I know how it feels, because I had severe acne myself in the eighth grade of primary school, when I was 15. It was the 1990s, and I was called a “geyser” and a “volcano”. The cosmetics of the time dried out the skin badly and only made things worse. It was not the most severe acne I later saw in a dermatology hospital during my studies, but for a teenager it was still very hard.
The breakthrough came when my dad came back from Israel and brought my mum Ahava cosmetics: a day cream, a night cream and a Dead Sea mud mask. Dad did not know what he was buying. It turned out to be a line for acne-prone, oily and problem skin, and I started using it. After that course my face looked like a baby’s bottom, the acne never came back and I was left with no scars. This is my own experience, not a promise for every skin. For almost 30 years I have liked this brand, and I often recommend it to clients for their children.
To start with, at the first pimples on the face or body, I recommend Dead Sea mud soap by Ahava or mud soaps from other brands, available for example at Rossmann. They come as a bar, and now also as a liquid. Mud soap usually does not dry out the skin. An alternative is a Polish sulfur soap, which can dry it out, so with sulfur we start with washing once a day or every other day and watch the skin. After such soaps the skin can look matte and feel less soft to the touch, which not everyone likes. For children under 12 it is worth asking a pharmacist whether a given product is suitable for them.
The second method, which can be used in younger children, is darsonvalization, a treatment with high frequency current. A discharge and a small amount of ozone appear between the glass electrode and the skin, and the ozone has an antibacterial effect, so the pimples are well disinfected. The treatment does not hurt, but the skin must be dry, because otherwise the glass electrode, called a pelota, can crack. It is a supporting method that does not replace treatment. It is not suitable for rosacea or visible broken capillaries, and for deep, painful lesions it is not enough.
For teenagers aged 15 to 17 I recommend the Dead Sea mud mask Ahava Time To Clear Purifying Mud Mask and creams from this brand. The mask is not among the cheapest, but it lasts a long time.
Recently my niece had some pimples. She got soap and a darsonval device from me, but she also wanted a cream. I spent over an hour in Rossmann looking for a cream for a child aged 10 to 14. For older teenagers the choice is big, but most products for problem skin contain ingredients too strong for such delicate skin. This autumn I finally found a very gentle cream for problem skin, Tołpa Dermo Face Sebio Start. I do not have my own observations yet, because it is only the first package, but its composition seems suitable for such delicate skin.
When choosing a cosmetic, it is worth paying attention to the ingredients. Salicylic acid in a low concentration helps unblock pores, azelaic acid works against inflammation and slightly reduces sebum production, and niacinamide, that is vitamin B3, helps calm inflammation. It is good if the routine also includes ceramides, because acne-prone skin also needs moisture and barrier repair. Benzoyl peroxide and retinoids are the first choice medicines in acne, but choosing them is better left to a dermatologist, and adapalene in Poland is available on prescription and is not for children under 12.
If a child uses retinoids or acids, or dark marks remain after pimples, sun protection is needed. We avoid aggressive products, harsh scrubs and strong rubbing, because irritated skin reacts even worse. We do not squeeze pimples, because it increases the risk of inflammation, scars and discoloration.
To start with, it is worth going to a cosmetologist, and if we cannot manage with gentle methods, then it is time for a dermatologist and treatment. This applies especially to deep, painful lesions or ones that leave marks, and to cases when there is no improvement after several weeks of regular care. Teenage acne can be a chronic condition, and the sooner it is brought under control, the lower the risk of scars. For a child, pimples are often a huge source of embarrassment, so it is good to talk about them calmly.
In our clinic in Osielsko, near Bydgoszcz, we start such matters with a conversation with the child and the parent. Acne care is calm, consistent work, in line with the slow age approach, and for more severe lesions I always recommend seeing a dermatologist.
Katarzyna Gwizdal, MSc, cosmetologist, Skin Laser